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Hanukkah is associated with the adventuresomeness of the Maccabees, the accumulation of ballsy Jews who rebelled adjoin the Greek-Syrian empire, defeated it adjoin all allowance and rededicated the Temple in Jerusalem. They lit a menorah with a little oil that lasted for eight days, sentencing us to centuries of bistro absurd aliment to excess.

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But there is an absorbing feminist another to this male-dominated and oil-laden narrative. For some, Hanukkah is a time to bless the adventuresomeness of a Jewish heroine, a woman who defeated, adjoin all odds, a able adversary with her wit, daring—and some acrid cheese.

This is the adventure of Judith, a affluent and admirable added who lived in the Judean boondocks of Bethulia added than two and a bisected millennia ago. Back the army of Assyrian King Nebuchadnezzar led by Holofernes invaded, Bethulia was put beneath siege. As the baptize in the belted boondocks began to run out, citizens absitively it was time to surrender. But Judith was not one to accord up. She larboard boondocks with her maid and entered the adversary affected to accommodated Holofernes himself. Fearless Judith told him the boondocks was about to abandonment and that she’d rather ancillary with his people. Enchanted by her adorableness and charm, Holofernes fell for her. That was back Judith went to work. She able him a meal featuring a acrid cheese. The cheese fabricated Holofernes so agog he drank abundant wine to canyon out. Judith again cut the warrior’s arch off with his own sword, captivated it in her bag and ran. Back the Assyrian army apparent the anatomy of their headless leader, they fled in agitation and Bethulia was spared.

But why bless Judith during Hanukkah? Frankly, there is no one acceptable explanation. According to some traditions, Judith was a daughter—or an aunt—of Judah Maccabee. This could explain the affiliation to Hanukkah, except for the annoying actuality that the Maccabees lived in the 2nd aeon BCE, while the adventure of Judith is from the 4th or 6th aeon BCE. Added traditions and medieval rabbis appropriate that the affiliation stems from the similarities amid the two stories: In both, outnumbered, weaker Jews defeat able warriors who are on the border of cutting them.

The Book of Judith never fabricated it into the Jewish canon, and the aboriginal Hebrew version, apparently from the aboriginal or additional aeon BCE, was lost. But the adventure itself was anesthetized on, and Jewish advisers of the Middle Ages acclaimed the custom of bistro cheese during Hanukkah and attributed it to the adventure of Judith’s bravery. The Catholic Church included the adventure as allotment of the Old Testament, but the Greek and Latin versions fabricated no acknowledgment of cheese. Instead, Judith agitated fig cakes, barley, oil and aliment to the adversary camp.

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In her book Medieval Hanukkah Traditions: Jewish Festive Foods in their European Contexts, Susan Weingarten of Tel Aviv University writes about Megillat Yehudit (The Scroll of Judith), a 1402 adaptation of the Judith adventure accounting in Provence by an alien writer. In this version, Judith feeds Holofernes levivot (Hebrew for latkes) fabricated with cheese. “She said to her maid: ‘Cook me two pancakes so I can eat at your hands.’” She absolute the pancakes heavily and again alloyed them into a pot with cheese. Judith again brought the acrid fritters to Holofernes’s room. At the time this adaptation was written, levivot were apparently abrade pancakes absurd in a pan.

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A agnate dish—ricotta pancakes—was alien in Rome by Jews who were expelled from Sicily in 1943. Alleged cassola, it is still a Roman-Jewish specialty served during Shavuot. (It was additionally adopted as a Christmas basin by the Catholics.) From Rome, according to Gil Marks’s Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, the cheese pancakes, now alleged latkes, advance to Central Europe and to the Ashkenazi communities. And although the attitude of bistro cheese during Hanukkah appeared in Hasidic writings, no absolute comestible attitude developed about it—for a actual actual reason. “Hanukkah is not the ideal time to eat dairy in Central Europe, so for best Ashkenazi Jews this was an expensive, adamantine to get option,” explains Israeli chef and aliment historian Shmil Holland. Rather, capacity were bent by what was available: Until potatoes became accepted in Europe in the backward 18th century, latkes were absolutely absurd dough, and during Hanukkah, the time of slaughtering geese and apprehension their fat, home cooks would fry latkes in goose fat and add goose gribenes (crispy bark cracklings) into the dough.

No Jewish association took the anniversary of Judith added actively than that of Tunisia. On the seventh night of Hanukkah, which avalanche on the aboriginal day of the Jewish ages of Tevet, Tunisian women acclimated to bless the Festival of Daughters, or the Aboriginal of the Ages (Rosh Chodesh) of Daughters. Year-round, the aboriginal of the ages is advised a women’s day of rest, but on Hanukkah alike added so. In account of Judith, women in the association would accumulate for the abounding day of cooking, singing and dancing. Some would eat cheese and alcohol wine. On the card were trays of sweets, such as makroud (date-stuffed semolina cookie), believing (a baby doughnut), debla or manicotti (deep-fried, flower-shaped chef blood-soaked in amoroso syrup). In some communities, men affianced to ally would accelerate their fiancées ability that day. Yael Baruch, a Tel Aviv administrator of Tunisian coast who wrote about the women’s anniversary in her doctoral thesis, addendum that in some Tunisian communities, the men would buy dairy food, including cheese pastries and couscous in milk, and serve it to the women. “One of the affidavit abaft that custom was the actuality that best Tunisian Jewish households did not accumulate a set of dairy dishes and never adapted dairy at home,” says Baruch. Bistro dairy foods was a appropriate treat.

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Baruch remembers adulatory the Festival of Daughters as a adolescent babe in Israel. “My ancestors lived abutting to added Tunisian families, so we could all bless this association anniversary together.” As bodies confused abroad and assimilated, the anniversary was forgotten. But in the accomplished ten years Baruch says there has been a resurgence. The World Federation of Tunisian Jewry in Israel, as able-bodied as organizations such as the Israeli Orthodox feminist alignment Kolech, accept active the attitude of adulatory the Festival of Daughters in ample association events. Women who still bethink the anniversary from Tunis and adolescent women who grew up in Israel appear to bless the airy and concrete backbone of Jewish women together. Cheese and wine are complimentary.

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Polish/Russian cheese latkes (Syrniki)Yields 15 average latkes

Syrniki are accepted in Russia and Poland, mainly as breakfast treats, abundant like pancakes. These aerial latkes were originally fabricated with Russian tvorog or Polish twaróg cheese, actual agnate to farmer’s cheese that’s broadly accessible in America. You can acquisition tvorog and twaróg in Eastern European or Russian supermarkets, use farmer’s cheese, or ache ricotta to abate its baptize content, as I do in the compound below.

1 lb. ricotta cheese, farmer’s cheese, or tvorog (see agenda above)¼ cup flour, additional added for dusting2 eggs, agilely baffled | 2 tablespoons sugar1 teaspoon adequate salt4 tablespoons olive oil (you can acting bisected with butter)For serving: delicate sugar, jam, acerb cream

1. Skip this footfall if you’re application farmer’s cheese or tvorog. Set a accomplished clarify or bankrupt cheesecloth central a analyze over a basin and beanery ricotta into sieve. Let angle at allowance temperature for 1-2 hours to abolish balance water.

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2. Put artificial ricotta, farmer’s cheese or tvorog into a aliment processor, add flour, eggs, amoroso and alkali and beating to actualize a bland batter. Don’t over-process the mixture. Transfer to a bowl, awning in artificial and let arctic in the fridge for at atomic 1 hour (and up to 4 hours).

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3. Baptize a belted baking area with flour; again use two tablespoons or medium-size beat to beat 1½-inch mounds assimilate the baking sheet. Baptize the concoction mounds with abrade and use your duke to agilely columnist them bottomward to actualize flatter, round-shaped pancakes.

4. Line a baking area with two layers of cardboard towels.

5. Calefaction olive oil in a non-stick pan over average heat. Back oil is hot, use a collapsed spatula to acclaim move bisected the pancakes from the baking area into the pan. Fry until golden, about 2 account per side. Transfer to a cardboard towel-lined sheet. Continue with the blow of the pancakes.

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6. Serve anon or at allowance temperature. You can baptize pancakes with delicate amoroso and serve with a ancillary of jam and acerb cream.

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